It’s Sunday morning, the sun has just come up, eyes only half-open I’m peeking out of the window. Yes! The ocean gods are kind! It’s a beautiful morning and the surf is up. I swiftly put on a bikini, slap on sunscreen, grab my surfboard and run down to the beach. The cool sand between my toes, the morning sun on my sleepy face, head under water with the first dive under a wave… I feel alive.
Why is surfing so addictive? I’ve been pondering this question for a while. And here are my thoughts, although I don’t know if my words even do it justice.
Nature. To be surrounded by nothing but nature (except for the occasional fish) is pretty amazing! Sitting on a board in the middle of the ocean is incredibly peaceful, serene yet powerful.
Freedom. Riding along a wave gives you this amazing sense of freedom, a feeling of ‘untouchableness’. Saltwater on the skin, a light wind on the face, the sound of the crushing wave behind you.
Focus. For me, surfing is pretty much as effective as is meditating to calm my mind. Out there in the ocean there are no distractions, no phones, no wifi.
And it takes all your focus to paddle into a wave, the mind is clear, no time for distracting thoughts. Pure.
Challenging. The ocean is so unpredictable. I love that! No wave is the same. Every day is completely different.
Some days you feel like you are really getting this surfing thing, the next the ocean shows you who the boss is. Amazingly humbling and grounding.
Wild. You never know what comes at you when you are out there and it’s kind of exciting. There is so much energy in the ocean. You come out recharged and refreshed (sometimes a little battered), able to tackle (almost) anything that comes at you throughout the day.
Connection. Without the usual distractions, the ocean is a wonderful place to re-connect with yourself and others.
As much as I enjoy sitting in the ocean by myself I absolutely love sharing ocean adventures with friends. The surf is a great place to catch up with people in between sliding along waves.
Salty. Sweat, tears and ocean water are all made from the same fabric. I’ve had moments in the surf when tears run down my face and it feels unbelievably liberating to have them washed away by saltwater.
The ocean (and nature) is my favourite teacher.
Salty kisses from a girl who grew up in the mountains.